Terroir in Ticino!

camillemarraccini
Sep 2, 2025
3 min read

Green Food Lab, Riva San Vitale

Written By: Camille Marraccini

September 1st, 2025

*Taking a Walk Through Azienda Vitivinicola Campaccio*

This week, the SALUTE program students participated in an immersive experience for our first European Food Practices class, focusing on “TERROIR” and its effects on wine production in the Ticino region of Switzerland. Before diving into the hands-on portion, we read Cultures of Terroir by Tim Unwin. The article explained terroir as more than just “soil” but as a unique interaction between the environment, soil, climate, altitude, and human activity that gives wines their distinct identity.

*Sara Steinert Borella, Director of the Steger Center, Walking Through the Merlot Grape Vines of Azienda Vitivinicola Campaccio.*

After preparing with the reading, we had a class discussion led by Sara Steinert Borella, the Steger Center Director, and Ken Eriksson, a Virginia Tech Geoscience professor. We broke down the origins of the word terroir, which comes from the Latin word: “Territorium” meaning territory or place, also the word: “Terre” meaning earth, rocks, and soil. From there, we discussed natural and human factors that shape terroir like: climate, water, soils, location, pruning, planting, vineyard size, and even the people who make the wine! I also learned the important distinction between viticulture (the growing and care of grapevines) and vinification (the process of turning grapes into wine). This foundation gave us the tools to better understand the experience that followed.

*Documenting the Beautiful Mountains of Ticino!*

We then walked to a local vineyard, Azienda Vitivinicola Campaccio, along with the students from the Geoscience program. The vineyard was stunning, with terraced vines set against the dramatic backdrop of the Ticino mountains. We learned that this region is best known for its Red Merlot, which dominates about 80% of the vineyard area in the Ticino Region. One of the most fascinating things I learned was Ticino’s White Merlot. While most red wines get their deep maroon/burgundy color from the skin of the grapes, White Merlot is made by removing the skins early in the process. There is a lot of tension over whether this wine is authentic or even “good” but I thought it interesting that a white wine could come from a red grape!

*Collecting Soil Samples at Azienda Vitivinicola Campaccio*

Our group also collected soil samples, which allowed us to directly connect terroir to the science behind viticulture. By analyzing chemical elements, oxygen levels, and rock composition, we could see how soil contributes to grape quality. This step showed me just how complex terroir really is and that it’s not just ONE factor, but a layered relationship between earth, climate, and human intervention.

*Soil Sample Collection of the Merlot Grape at Azienda Vitivinicola Campaccio*

Finally, we ended the day with a wine tasting back at the Steger Center. We sampled three different wines and had the opportunity to form our own opinions about flavor, balance, and enjoyment. I used skills learned in my previous Food Science Sensory Evaluation classes to be able to thoroughly enjoy this tasting while also being productive.

From this experience, I learned that terroir is FAR MORE than just the soil beneath the grapevines, but it is the combination of natural and human factors that make wines unique to their region. In Ticino, this means the Alpine soils, Mediterranean-influenced climate, and centuries of viticultural tradition that allow Merlot to thrive. I discovered the surprising process behind White Merlot, saw firsthand how soil composition impacts grape quality, and practiced sensory skills during our tasting. Most importantly, I came away with a deeper appreciation for how place, culture, and science intersect in every glass of wine.